When I tried to do it he was unable because this is when he realized that he would need to split the case. Now remove the screws on the center case and you can then split the case. :shrug: After I had "injected" the grease in I took my finger and smeared some more in until it wasn't being "absorbed" in any more. Since it is stationary (and probably sealed by congealed oil/gas anyway) I would not replace it. Using this slide hammer seal removal method will save time and money from having to split the cases to drive the seal out from the interior side of the engine or transmission case. I started with the right side and I tried using 2 wood screws placed at 9 and 3 o'clock. Note that crank seals can be replaced without splitting the case. Jump to Latest Follow ... the case won't split without taking it off. Thank you for the info...how do you clean out the old grease? Its always some shade of grey. The clutch side crank seal is leaking and I need to replace it. You can get away without a case splitter on this engine as the mag side bearing has a slip fit on the crank to bearing ID. But it is a much better seal when installed PROPERLY by splitting the cases. This is why a manual would help. Lube the seal OD well with a silicone based adhesive and get it started by hand before pushing. 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"I should mention it IS possible to replace the seal without splitting the case. Motor is now in the shop getting a new wiseco crank/bearings/seals (crank rebuild is the same cost as a new non OEM crank ) after I stripped it to the point of splitting the case. I suggest you replace both left and right side crank seals as well as the seal behind your front sprocket while your at it. This is what my bearing looked like 1k after a total rebuild. One post suggested removing the cap on the nipple that comes out of the case and replacing it with a 2-3" length of gas hosing with a plug at the end. Is it possible to replace a crank seal (Clutch side) without splitting the cases? Several functions may not work. I drilled pilot holes and turned in the screws. you can easily repack the bearing cavity by using a vetrinary syring and nylon vent hose slipped over the hypo end. such as a napa or such. BTW. Post Jan 10, 2018 #1 2018-01-10T02:19. When I'm in doubt, I mix some dye glow stain into the grease refill. If the pulse line hooks up to that crankcase, your fuel pump probably isn't working, hence the reason why it won't run. Splitting the casings allows access to the crank, the oil seals, main bearings, and transmission components. The silicone will both lube it to help it slide in and then help seal and hold it in place. Motor is pumped up to 5-6 psi although it will leak almost immediately. How to replace an oil seal with the shaft still in the case. Can crank seals be changed without splitting the cases? And im assuming you cant change the second seal? the cases will slide apart with the crank staying with the clutch side half. There is a little tiny rod connected to the bearing that fits into the notch visible in the photo at the lower left arc of the bearing. The shop originally thought that it good be down without splitting and asked for the 100.00 dollars, which was for the purchase of the parts (seals and gaskets) and the labor to do the work. Tool Links: https://www.amazon.com/shop/shaneconleyhow2wrench?ref=ac_inf_hm_vp If I can ever be of service to you, here is a video explains how to connect with me. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vjvmB01ebcs Keep Wrenching,Shane ConleyInstructor/Motivator/MotorcyclistBelow are some links that help support me and my work. It has a slight lip that makes driving it in nearly impossible. I just found a complete oil seal set ( all 7 seals ) made by tusk for $14.99 on rockymountainatvmc.com and shipping is only $7. Can I replace the front sprocket seal without splitting the engine? 92 8. Community Forum Software by IP.Board 3.4.8Licensed to: VerticalScope Inc. 27 cc Was using it last week, started up as normal to blow the grass clippings off the driveway, set it down to move some lawn furniture,,, picked it back up and I had no high RPM’s… it idled but wouldn’t rev. He already pulled the bad seal out, but wants to know if he will be able to successfully seat a new one. does anyone know if you can change these crank seals without splitting the cases? You'll see evidence in the cylinder with the black light after 5 minutes of operation. Page 1 of 2 - crank seal replacement without splitting? It does seem to me that it should go in OK as long as you use the correct tool to push it with. I would buy a syringe so that you can really shoot the grease into the bearings. but i thought you could replace the seal without splitting cases. I am sure i have read somewhere that it is possible to replace ETZ 250 crank seals without splitting the engine.. or am i imagining things? I sprayed detergent/water mix on the seal and as you can see the leak is severe. There is no need to split the cases during this installation, which will save you time, money and the ride you are on if failure occurs on a ride. It didn't budge. ETZ crank seal replacement without splitting cases. I was wondering if it is possible to replace a crank seal without splitting the cases, just pull the side cover, take the two gears off the crank, pull the seal and drive the new one in. This gives you access to replace shift forks, gears, and bearings. Thanks. I have a manual, but it talks about seal installation in the section on engine teardown. REV-XP / XS Chassis - Performance Trail 120-129 Inch Models. Our lab training today is on tips for removing seals still on a shaft. Next I placed 2 more screws at 12 and 6. I have recently purchase an 08 mxz 800 and after reading about many crankseals and isoflex "edit for bad language" out I would like to change mine before detonation. thumbdoc, you're an excellent resource. how to replace crankshaft seal. Crank seal replacement, behind the flywheel on a Stihl 2 stroke : How difficult is it…? I would also like to see a how to guide if it exists. by Cerberus73 » Wed Apr 08, 2015 11:54 pm . Right crank seal and rear mounts removable without splitting cases? Best way and easiest way to do this is with a bearing buddy, thats why I installed one on my sled this fall, takes about 15mins. If you pull the seal off, the grease should be white, if its gray/brown/black, this is one of the first signs that the inner seal is starting to fail because gas/oil is leaking into the bearing and mixing with the grease. i highly doubt i will be doing many of these seal replacements so just curious about making do this time. Another clue to PTO Isoflex consumption through main bearing seal is a light yellow haze on the spark plug & piston crown. Might have to … also i doubt these seals are cheap can i get them from somewhere other than stihl? And im assuming you cant change the second seal? There is no way to change the MAG seal without splitting the cases. thanks in advance. is the bearing buddy worth it? I don't think I've ever seen white grease in a bearing of an engine that has been run. The factory crank seal part # for the RIGHT hand side is 91201-300-003 this is the "oil seal" 30x42x8 mm. There are alot of people who also say this is the hack way and don't do this. and can i do it without having the stihl puller? This is my Leaf blower – StihlSH 86 C . Pull on the screw to remove the seal. Observe the Isoflex color and smell. I purchase the 500 gram grease gun tubes of Isoflex NB52 and use a designated grease gun with a farm impliment needle. Wish we saw you here more frequently. If so, I've not been able to find it. Do it the right way and split the case. im waiting on a manual so i cant look it up. The seal on the clutch side will install flush, but check the flywheel before removal and measure the amount of recess, if any. Search it. There is a second bearing right next to it with a seal you don't want to blow out. If you suspect a seal failure on the PTO side, it's best to have a pressure decay test performed to assure crankcase seal integrity. There are only a few specialized tools required to do this on a P series engine, although older engines also require a heat source like a propane torch to help split the casings. Judging from your before photo, I'd clean as best as you can, repack then slip a white pipe cleaner down the fill port after a few rides. 92 8. flyred. If the bearing is failing, then yes, you'll have to split the crank to replace the whole bearing, if its still good, repack the bearings with new grease and seal it back up with a new seal or bearing buddy. Although somewhat complicted to the beginner, it pays dividends preventing a failed engine. The carbon ring, #14 when new has a portion of the top surface raised up. Use a plastic dead blow hammer to tap the crank out of the case. Our crank seal upgrade kit is a preventative maintenance item designed to protect the crank seal from belt failure and silicone used while snorkeling a unit. Can I change out that seal without doing open heart surgery? Check out the video for a quick and easy way to remove crank seals, shift shaft seals, and any other external oil seal from an engine or transmission case. Do NOT mark the crank up. Similar concept to the bearing buddy that C&T sells. ... Can I replace the front sprocket seal without splitting the engine? - posted in REV-XP / XS Chassis - Performance Trail 120-129 Inch Models: I have recently purchase an 08 mxz 800 and after reading about many crankseals and isoflex "edit for bad language" out I would like to change mine before detonation. Does that sound like a crank seal? That surface touches against to smooth bottom of bearing #11 and makes a seal. You can replace the crank seals without splitting the case, but I would not recommend doing it that way, they might blow out. Please re-enable javascript to access full functionality. have an oil seal leak on an 029, can i replace the oil seal without splitting the saw? If you mark up the crank the seal will leak. Now the problem is i cant get the crank out of the right side of the crank case. Thank you for the info...how do you clean out the old grease? ... Just keep in mind if the seal is split it is most likely caused by a failing PTO crank bearing and the engine should be disassembled for inspection,but this will get you back on the snow . I'd be careful how you clean out old grease and apply the new grease. Would it be enough to crack open the case halves and replace the following: 1) crank shaft outer oil seals (MAG and PTO), 2) O-rings on outer bearings, 3) Block gasket, 4) Generator gasket, 5) Circlips, 6) case seals using threebond 1211 - Or is it only right to purchase a refurbished crank … Word of caution here. And like you said, It should be quite obvious if you mess up the seal. A buddy of mine nicked his seal when some clutch disks shattered tearing the seal. You can dig the old seal out using something small like a dental pick and small screwdriver. This gives you access to replace shift forks, gears, and bearings. I read about 30 threads on this subject before I attempted to do mine. For an unrelated issue I pulled the jugs off to rehone the cylinders only to find that my ring gaps were 4 thou and 8 thou. All can be done without splitting your case. Now remove the screws on the center case and you can then split the case. I like it here but I have too many other forums to post on. This way if you put in too much grease it will be able to leak out into the tubing instead of busting out of your brand new crank seal. Watch the 2-stroke series here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5_Ch6T16o4I\u0026list=PLAtBOuPaEyt_pO6zS6U7Rpjk-uCEYZZ8OThank you for watching. Please subscribe and share my work! I pulled on them in rotation with no movement. If its gas smelling, bad news. This is not recommended for shared computers, Back to REV-XP / XS Chassis - Performance Trail 120-129 Inch Models, Community Forum Software by IP.Board 3.4.8. I am not trying to be a smart *** here, but re-assembly is just the reverse of dis-assembly. is the bearing buddy worth it? As for splitting the cases, warm the whole case up before heating around each bearing. I just did my bearings/seal today. ive got the crank case split and all new bearings and seals (went with all balls) The cylinder is 20 over with a new wysco piston and rings and all new top end gaskets. Best way to prevent a bearing failure is to make sure its always greased properly and excess pressure doesnt build up and blow back into the crank. I dont have the puller/installer tool. flyred. #6 On my 78 400 there is a lip that the outer sleave rests on so even when the cases are seperated there is no way to get a tool on the outer sleave. You will need to pick up some ISOFLEX as well. I am not trying to be a smart *** here, but re-assembly is just the reverse of dis-assembly. Note that crank seals can be replaced without splitting the case. This is my first sled and Im very unfamiliar with it but Im also very mechanical. im fairly positive i must change the left crank seal butt if i have to split the case then i will just get a seal set and replace all of them. I have read quite a few forums where people replace the more problematic clutch side seal and grease without splitting the cases. Remove the plate and "pick" it out. Really don't wanna put a short block in this after the first ride.Just seeing if anyone has done this or knows more about the problem. I don't think your gonna find a better deal ! You currently have javascript disabled. The mag side can be changed without splitting the cases. Is there a youtube on this? My 500 has a drippy black exhaust and gray (coolant level OK) tranny oil. This is why a manual would help. Re: 84 JS550 Can I replace the front crank seal without splitting the crankcase I received the stator parts this week and got them all wired up. You DONT want to clean out the existing grease. I would like to replace it without removing the engine and splitting the crankcase. The only way to replace it is to open the crankcase halves. Try not to even touch it. Since my 2007 CR250R has been down while I waited for a new stator I decided to replace the crank seals. I don't see why it is necessary to split the cases, but I have never had the low end apart on one of these bikes. The grease will be mildly gray due to normal metal staining. If it's dark and smells like gas, not so much. The remaining grease looks black to me ?

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